Barn doors are kind of a huge deal. And this barn door is just, well, huge.
I love barn doors, but, alas, there really isn’t a suitable place in our home for one. Then one day it hit me. We have a place after all.
The front of our garage – you know, the spot actually built for cars – is a shop. The back is where the tools are stored, where I do finish work, and where all of the stuff is stored – camping stuff, Christmas stuff, recreation stuff, stuff stuff… As much as I would love to have a fancy dust collection system attached to all of our saws, my husband and I chose liberal arts degrees and haven’t yet won the lottery.
The point being, it is a big task keeping that garage clean. With the rainy season returning I won’t always be able to take as much as possible outside. We needed a way to separate the two sections of our garage.
But that’s a 63 inch wide opening. Go big or go home right?
My goal was to spend no more than $100 on the door, hardware included. And we kind of did that. Sort of. Read on.
How to build a sliding barn door for around $100…even if it’s massive
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2 flanges (2)
nipples (1 or 2)
elbows (1 or 2)
1 galvanized pipe
a bunch of 1 x board
2 screw hooks
1 1/2 pocket hole screws
1×4 trim board
Constructing the Door
I’m not going to spend much time on this one, because frankly there are five zillion barn door tutorials out there. Short story: We had a bunch of 1×10 beetle kill blue pine boards laying around. If you have to build a door of these proportions plywood is a good bet, but if you happen to have the board already….
We joined them all together, along with two boards we purchased to make up for a little shortage. Yes, the pocket holes show from the back. No, I don’t care. It’s a garage.
I didn’t want to cover up the blue color, so I wiped on a little Antique White stain by Varathane. Check out how perfect those joints are.
I glued and finish nailed the 1×4 trim with the help of my awesome 3 year old.
I stained the trim board with Varathane Briarsmoke. Would it have been easier to do before I actually attached it to the door? Sure, but I’m the type of person who builds a 65″ wide barn door so I’m not exactly the type of person who does things the easy way.
This is probably what you actually clicked on this for, right? Barn door hardware is awesome. It’s lovely. It…wouldn’t really fit well here and costs more than I want to spend.
So we got some galvanized pipe and flanges and a couple connectors. Screw the pipe to a 90 degree elbow, then add a nipple on to that, and connect that to a flange. Screw the flange to the wall (stud, of course) and there you have it.
This is a 10 foot span, so it does bend a little. My husband came up with a brilliant solution to fix this issue that involves a dadoed 2×4, a unicorn, and some sort of unrepeatable spell, but to be honest, it will probably stay like this for a while.
I’m going to break this down in case you are considering your own project and want to get an idea of what it takes. Note that the left side of the door runs into a wall, so we don’t have a bend in the hardware at that end.
$9.96 flange (2)
$32.32 1x10x8 (2)
$2.48 screw hooks (2)
$8.88 1x4x10 (2)
$6.84 1x4x8 (2)
$4.97 pocket hole screws
$72.24 blue pine boards (that’s the cost when I originally bought them forever ago, but it’s somewhat debatable whether I have to count this in our total cost now because of the rule that says “If it has been in your garage for longer than 6 months it is not considered free.” You know, that rule.)
$10.11 black iron galvanized pipe @ 10 foot long
$158.73 (*But really $85.49 because of The 6 Month Rule. Note: Husband does not agree with The Rule for some reason.)
I found a 10 foot long barn door track online for $179.99, so given my hardware cost $25.54 I figure I saved over $150 on the hardware alone.
And with that, I leave you with pictures. I need to go find something to spend $150 on. Happy building!